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Guide

Repair, reroute or replace a water pipe?

Once a leak has been found, there are usually three ways to deal with it: fix the damaged spot, run a new pipe around the problem, or replace a longer section or the whole system. No single option is best for every home.

Should you repair, reroute or replace?

Spot repair fixes the leak where it is—tends to suit a single leak in reachable pipe that is otherwise in fair condition
Rerouting abandons the damaged run and installs a new path—tends to suit leaks that are hard to reach or likely to recur along the same run
Sectional or full replacement swaps out a length of pipe or the whole system—tends to come up with repeat leaks, widespread deterioration, or other work that already opens up the house

Ask whoever proposes the repair to explain why their option fits your pipe, not just which one they usually do.

What each option means

These are the four approaches you are likely to hear about. Our pipe repair and replacement page explains how this work is scoped as a service.

Spot repair

The damaged piece is exposed, cut out and replaced with a short new section or a repair fitting. The rest of the piping stays in place.

Reroute

The leaking section is capped and left in place, and a new pipe is run along a different route to serve the same fixtures. For a leak under a slab, the new line often goes overhead or through walls.

Sectional replacement

A longer run of pipe, such as one branch line or the buried service line to the house, is replaced while the rest of the system stays.

Full replacement (repipe)

Most or all supply piping in the building is replaced. This is a larger project and usually involves openings in several rooms.

How do repair, reroute and replacement compare?

Spot repair Reroute Sectional replacement Full repipe
Scope One leak point One run, new path One branch or line Whole supply system
Typical disruption Smallest opening, if reachable Openings along the new path Openings along the replaced run Openings in many rooms
Fits best when Single leak, sound surrounding pipe, good access Hard-to-reach leak, especially under concrete One run has repeat problems Multiple leaks or deteriorated pipe throughout
Main trade-off Rest of the pipe stays the same age/condition New pipe takes a different, sometimes longer route Leaves other runs as they are Largest project and disruption
What it leaves behind Original system with one repair Abandoned section in place Mixed old and new piping New system

Which questions should determine the scope?

Question Leans toward spot repair Leans toward reroute/replace
Is this the first leak on this pipe? Yes No, there have been others
Can the leak be reached without major demolition? Yes No: under concrete, deep underground, behind finished tile
What condition is the pipe next to the leak in? Looks sound when exposed Visible corrosion, thinning or damage nearby
How confident is the leak location? High, confirmed at access Uncertain or more than one suspected area
Is other work planned? No Yes: remodel, flooring, new fixtures
How much disruption can you accept now? Little More now to avoid repeat openings later

These are tendencies, not rules. A careful repairer weighs them together.

Special Case: Leaks Under a Concrete Slab

A slab leak can be repaired by opening the floor above it, or bypassed by rerouting.

Opening the slab means cutting flooring and concrete at the leak, repairing the pipe, then patching. It depends on a confident location and accepting floor disruption.
Rerouting avoids breaking the floor but needs openings along a new path. It also leaves the old line under the slab.

Neither is automatically better. See slab leak repair for how that decision is usually made.

Special Case: Buried Yard Lines

For a leak on the buried line between the meter or well and the house:

A spot repair means digging at the leak, which only works well if the location is known.
Replacing the line may make sense if it has leaked before or the pipe is in poor condition.

Any digging in Arizona starts with an Arizona 811 locate request at least two full working days ahead. Private lines may not be marked by 811, so separate locating may be needed. See underground water line repair.

Multi-unit excavation exception: for excavations at apartment communities or mobile-home parks, A.R.S. § 40-360.22 adds a certified-mail inquiry to the landlord; the landlord may take up to ten working days to respond with marking of landlord-operated underground facilities. Do not dig until required markings or clearance are complete.

Special Case: Pipes Inside Walls and Ceilings

Leaks in walls and ceilings are usually the easiest to reach. Spot repair is common here, but the opening needed to reach the pipe can still be significant, especially behind tile or cabinets. See in-wall and ceiling pipe leak repair.

Pipe material matters, but it is not the whole story

Different materials age and fail in different ways, and some fittings and repair parts suit some materials better than others. Whoever evaluates the repair should identify:

The material of the leaking section
The material of the pipe on either side
Any transitions between different materials
Whether the same material runs through the rest of the house

Material alone does not decide the answer. Two homes with the same pipe can need different repairs because of access, age, and how many leaks there have been.

Signs a spot repair may not be the end of it

More than one leak in a short period
Leaks appearing in different rooms
Visible corrosion, discoloration or thinning when the pipe is exposed
Recurring low pressure or discolored water alongside leaks
An earlier repair on the same run

Permits and licensing

Larger repairs, reroutes and repipes may need a permit, depending on the work and jurisdiction. In Arizona, plumbing repair work is generally contracting work that requires the right Registrar of Contractors license unless an exemption applies. Ask whoever proposes the work whether a permit is needed, who pulls it, and what license covers the job.

Why do costs differ between repair options?

We do not list prices, because they depend on the specific job. The main factors are:

Access: how much flooring, concrete, drywall, tile or landscaping must be opened
Length of pipe being replaced or rerouted
Number of fixtures reconnected
Restoration afterward, which is often a separate scope
Permits, inspections and locating where required
Unexpected conditions found once the pipe is exposed

For detection costs specifically, see our guide to what affects leak detection costs.

Questions to ask whoever proposes the repair

Why this option rather than the others for my pipe?
How confident is the leak location, and how was it found?
What will be opened, and who closes and restores it?
What happens to the old pipe if it is rerouted or bypassed?
What condition did you see in the pipe next to the leak?
Is a permit needed? What license covers this work?
How will the repair be tested before closing up?

Frequently asked questions

Is rerouting always better than breaking into a slab?

No. Rerouting avoids floor demolition but adds openings elsewhere and leaves the old line in place. Opening the slab can be the simpler fix when the location is confident and access is reasonable.

Does one leak mean I need to repipe the house?

Not necessarily. A single leak in otherwise sound pipe is often fixed with a spot repair. Repeat leaks and visible deterioration are stronger reasons to consider replacement.

Can I choose the option, or does the plumber decide?

You decide. A good repairer explains the trade-offs so you can choose with the facts in front of you.

Will my homeowner’s insurance pay for a reroute or repipe?

That depends on your policy and the cause. Ask your insurer before work starts what they need to see.

What happens to an abandoned pipe after a reroute?

It is usually disconnected, capped and left in place. Ask the repairer to explain where the old and new lines run.

Is trenchless replacement an option for yard lines?

Sometimes, depending on the pipe, soil and site. Ask whether it is suitable for your line and whether the repairer actually offers it.

Want help weighing the options?

If you have a located leak and are trying to decide on a repair approach, call Kingman Leakcrest at (928) 437-2800.

Call (928) 437-2800